Tag Archive: Yangon


The 7 hour overnight trip out to Inle Lake from Bagan deprived us of the sight of the lush Burmese jungles through which we passed. We arrived at around 04:30 whilst still dark. However, the proprietor was kind enough to open the gate and let us in early. After a late start we “mooched” around the town of Nyaungshwe to orientate ourselves. We negotiated a price for a day out on the lake for the following day from an itinerate Street fixer, then went back to our hostel (The Aquarius).

Tending the “Floating Tomatoe” plantation

The fast & narrow fish tail boat with boatmen for 16000 kyats (£9.25) from Nyaungshwe to the Ywama village on the other side of the lake about an hour away was a bargain. We stopped on the way to see a huge floating farm cultivating tomato & cucumber.

Ywama village was hugely interesting. Visiting various artisan establishments producing fabrics made from locally sourced silks, cotton and plants from which fine fibres were drawn spun and made into the fabric from which a variety of garments were made. Silver and Gold were also sourced locally from which jewellery was fashioned. A cigar factory where cigars, cigarillos and stogies were hand rolled from locally sourced leaf.

 

Handloom weaving…Amazing…effective simplicity.

Gliding around the village by boat minded one of other water borne environments that we had visited previously in the Mekong Delta in Cambodia. It is a privilege to meet and greet such a gentle, always smiling people.

The fishermen on Inle Lake have a novel, yet thoroughly practical way of using their feet to manipulate their fishing basket.

 

Friday 13.07.17 Headed south on the 10 am bus to Yangon. This time the beauty of the Burmese jungle did not escape us as our transport twisted sinuously down from the highlands to the low country. Utterly enchanting vistas. The trip south took 12 hours, and the taxi ride in from Yangon station another hour. Checked back in at Shannkaley hostel around eight in the evening.Lovely smiles of recognition from the hostel staff as we bowled through the door. Got settled down and promptly fell into a deep slumber.

Dexterous use of hands & feet in the process of fishing on Lake Inle.

Caught the 11:00 am flight out of Yangon back to Bangkok.
After having some reservations prior to going to Myanmar, I am so glad that I did. So much pleasure derived from meeting such a gentle courteous and helpful people. A countryside, (particularly in the mountainous jungle of the NE) that is utterly beautiful.
Will be headed south from Bangkok Friday 14.07.17 to spend some time on an island off the SE coast of the Thai peninsula

Arrived by train back in Bangkok from Vientiane to Nong Kai (after some problems with the ticket issued to us in Vientiane Laos) for a two-night “lay-over”. This, as a precursor to flying out to Myanmar from Don Mueang airport (one of the two airports serving Bangkok).
Arrived Yangon, Myanmar Sunday 18.06.17 at 10:05 am after an hours flight from Bangkok. First impressions, people very friendly and helpful. Taxi ride downtown to ShannKalay Hostel cost 11000.00 kyats (£12.60). After a small sleep took a walk down by the harbour and market area. Lots of old colonial buildings in various states of repair/disrepair, in a myriad of designs from Art Deco, Roman neoclassical, Gothic, and post-modernist vernacular.

Anyone need a hat!

Seems such a shame that those buildings that really do need saving suffer from a lack of funds. However, hopefully, as the economy opens further perhaps more inward investment may be forthcoming. Have been out for some “Street Food” (a little iffy but OK), then at a local restaurant, which was quite busy, (always a good sign). Visited Aung San Suu Kyi’s front gate (where she endured “house arrest”). Visited the “Reclining Buddha”, all 200 feet of her then took a taxi ride around town for four hours looking at various points of interest. Took a walk in the park on a decidedly “dodgy” wooden promenade. Unfortunately, twenty minutes in, the heavens opened and got absolutely soaked to the skin.

Covered quite some ground over the past month or so.

Wednesday 24.06.17 Took a bus for a five-hour ride over to the West coast and the Andaman sea to a town called Ngwesaung, where we checked in at “Hill Top” a small hostel with twelve traditional wooden chalet type buildings. We are now in “rainy season” so the place is fairly deserted and it rains most every day but then brightens. Breakfast and evening meal is provided however, one has to get used to the “house” cat strolling nonchalantly across the table and ants busying themselves with whatever ants tend to do whilst evening meals are consumed quickly as the midges feed themselves on ones ankles, where those “juicy” blood vessels lie close to the surface. The various resort hotels in Ngwesaung are all shut for the rainy season however, one can see that the environment is slowly being developed into a “go to” seaside location for both indigenous people and foreign visitors.
02.07.17The Green Dragon bus company provided a relatively new(ish) Higer bus which barrelled along the narrow roads back from the coast. First twisting and turning around hairpin bends, then slowing to squeeze past other, slower road users with the judicious use of horn and braking systems.We crossed several rivers of varying sizes on bridges constructed either from concrete or wood. Those constructed of wood creaked & groaned disconcertingly as the bus made a passage. The journey continued, passing acre upon acre of rice paddy fields, fish farms and the occasional grazing water buffalo, our progress took us through small village environments where the cadences of daily life played out. A man transporting his 14-foot canoe on his bicycle accompanied by and sometimes engulfed by a variety of geese, goats, dogs and itinerate traders bearing their wares bound for markets and roadside pitches. Young boys, who otherwise should have been in school (one assumes), carrying large bundles of wood on their heads to some ill-defined destination. All this is seen fleetingly as the bus “ghosts” in and then out of these various tableaux.
03.07.17Once more we found ourselves on a bus again following an overnight stay at ShannKalay Guest House in Yangon.(It never ceases to amaze me how far out of town Bus Stations are in Myanmar. Sometimes driving by taxi for an hour and a half out of town, just to get to it!)

Stupas are round. Temples have a square footprint. There are many hundreds of them throughout the area.

At 21:00 we got on board for a 9-hour overnight journey north to the city of Mandalay. Bus stations (to a stranger), seem like a chaotic “madhouse” of feverish & chaotic activity. However, it all seems to work reasonably well, and we find ourselves ensconced in a rather nice Swedish built Scania Vabis Executive coach with A/C, fully reclining, comfortable seats, onboard seat back t.v. sets with a choice of films in most languages. There are also snacks and drinks on offer.09.07.17 Mandalay seems overwhelmed with temples and stupa of varying sizes and styles.The town is fairly spread out and has a walled “Citadel” which the army appears to be used as a barracks. Only stopping a couple of nights then another coach trip south to a town called Bagan lying on the Irrawaddy river.

Most every woman and child seems to have a predisposition to paint their faces. Now whether this started out as “sun protection” & ended up being quite fashionable, I know not. Quite unusual though.

Though a rather dusty place, it has a vibrancy and development is taking place very quickly as the economy opens up to enterprise and irrepressible entrepreneurs.08.07.17 Inle LakeArrived here in the early hours (04:30) and got into town by Tuk Tuk as the bus station was some distance from town. However, the night watchman woke at our calling and kindly let us in. It was still dark.

A lady of the Kayan tribe who inhabit an area in NE east Burma close to the Thai border

Women of the Kayan Lahwi tribe are well known for wearing neck rings, brass coils that are placed around the neck, appearing to lengthen it.
In the late 1980s and early 1990s due to conflict with the military regime in Myanmar, many Kayan tribes fled to the Thai border area.[3] Among the refugee camps set-up, there was a Long Neck section, which became a tourist site, self-sufficient on tourist revenue and not needing financial assistance.

Tomorrow will take a native boat trip around Inle Lake to visit some villages, Stupas, watching fisherman at their labours and a visit a floating tomato farm which are plentiful around this area of the country.

C37 here in Bangkok today, clear blue skies and busy busy down the Khao San Road. Traders, stall holders, massage parlours, bars, eateries, hookers, hawkers, beggars,  and bible bashers, all in an undulating, pulsating ephemeral tide.

Checked into “Thai Garden House”  19.04.17, which is, as Thai descriptions go more generally, “never knowingly undersold.” However, everything and everyone seem to rub along well together. Time spent here is dedicated to “Chillin’, Relaxing & Planning”.

The Thai Garden House Hostel is a traditional old wooden clapperboard property which has kinda’ been overpowered by subsequent development. However undaunted “Mr.Thai” the owner, works assiduously to keep customers happy.

The trip north by bus, ensues at (19:30pm) Monday evening. Chiang Mai was missed last time one was here, so once there, will provide an excellent opportunity to head east into Laos.

A decision has yet to be made how to get to Laos. There are two possibilities via the Mekong river,(9hours fast boat…or 2 days slow boat). However, one has been advised to reject the “fast option” as too dangerous. Apparently, there have been many accidents, with boats hitting rocks in the river, capsizing and throwing occupants and luggage overboard!!!

Alternatively, one could fly to Vientiane (southern Laos) or go overland to Luang Prabang.

Just discovered, subsequent to having bought overland tickets north, (isn’t it always the way..) that flights are available to fly to Yangon (Myanmar) for £25!!!! from Bangkok. Anyway, coming back to Bangkok after Laos, to pick up some luggage we left behind to lighten our burden. Therefore, leaving Myanmar a considered option for later.

Yeh!!! 1920’s rocks!!!

On a completely separate note, I got some “RayBan “Gatsby”” sunglasses as a birthday present from my two daughters and their husbands…..What do you think?????…mmmmmm

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