Landed Sydney from LAX 26.08.19. Got the shuttle into Bondi Junction whilst G,D, & T were out in the UK . Great to reunite when they returned a week later, and such a surprise to see how Thór had grown since January!

Spent the next couple of weeks relaxing, catching up and spending precious time with Thór. Flew up to Coomera on Friday the 20.09.19 to spend the weekend with H,Y & A. Then flew back down Sunday night.

Conference season with the Lib Dems and Labour parties just now with jaw dropping policy initiatives. Dems are actively promoting a “People’s Vote” (as if we hadn’t had one already, called a Referendum. Labour are advocating getting rid of all Public Schools and remaining in the EU (notwithstanding the vote to leave). It is disconcerting to receive news that is going on in british politics at the moment. The “Establishment” are plainly refusing to countenance leaving the EU.

Went back up to H,Y & A in Coomera 08.10.19 for Lynn’s psyio appointment and spend time with H,Y&A. Left for Bali on a “visa run” on 23.10.19. Back to Sydney on Thursday 31.10.19. Flying up to Hervey Bay QLD on the 06.11.19, house / pet sitting for a couple (Andy, Eileen & Rusty their dog).


Well a General Election in the UK has been announced for December 12th. Interesting time ahead. Now in Kuta coming to the end of an 8 night stay. It has been soooooo relaxing, great weather, cool beer, and light meals.

07.11.19 Took Andy & Eileen to Hervey Bay Airport yesterday. They have kindly allowed us the use of their vehicle in their absence to get Rusty to the beach each afternoon for a play. Andy & Eileen live in a beautiful 3 bedroomed bungalow with a couple of lounges and a lovely patio area where Lynn can indulge in some artwork. Andy & Eileen will return Saturday 23.11.19 on the noon flight.

23.11.19 Saturday: Picked Andy & Eileen up from the airport. Rusty was pleased to see them. Sunday we went over to Fraser Island. Intriguing landscape. Arising from the caldera of a n ancient super volcano, the sandy island is home to flora & fauna of unique provenance. It is a national park and the rangers who conducted our tour were very informative and knowledgeable. Later took a light aircraft flight over the island. One of only two in the world that has an airstrip on the beach. The other being Barra island in the Scottish isles. Monday 25.11.19: Taking the train (for a change down to Gold Coast).

10.12.19 Tuesday: Febrile activity in the run up to Christmas. LK has an eye operation tomorrow. It is called a “Vitrectomy with Membrane Peel“. GLHK & Thór back from a “Girlie Weekend” and Dom is back from the US after a “jolly” with the lads. LK and I will be moving to an Airbnb on Grand Parade with Penny. Sydney is badly impacted with the smoke from bushfires to the north and west of the city just now. The “scuttlebut” is that, it has been much worse this year in comparison to previous years.

13.12.19: The result of the GE has been confirmed. The Tories have regained power/government under Boris Johnson for a 5 year term with 365 seats over Corbyn’s Labour Party 203 seats, a 43.6% to 32.2% margin.

Have now moved out of Sydney CBD to Sans Souci area near Dolls point, about an hour and ten minutes from Circular Quay. Domiciled with a lady called Penny until thursday 19.12.19.

Back to work

22.12.19 Sunday Last Thursday we spent a night in Bondi at George & Doms. We baby sat whilst they went out to enjoy a meal and theatre tickets we treated them to a “Cirque de Soleil” performance. Friday we moved to our next “dog minding” assignment in the Earlfield district of Sydney. Keith & Judy, the couple who’s two dogs we were to take care of, are a delightful and interesting. Keith’s passion is climbing, and he holds the distinct honour of having climbed a notoriously difficult peak 150 miles of the eastern seaboard of Australia in a group of islands called the “Lord Howe” island group. Within which lies a 560 metre (1600 ft) edifice called “Balls Pyramid.”


Sadly, time in the Galapagos had come to an end. We caught an early afternoon flight to the mainland, landing in Guayaquil late that same afternoon. We spent a fairly underwhelming week in the town, no doubt deflated because of our recent euphoric experience out on the islands.

Our experience here left a strongly positive impression which will live with us for a long time. Hopefully, we will return, perhaps with the grandchildren at some future, yet to be defined point.

Anyhow, onward and upward. We decided to catch the overland from Guayaquil to Cuenca. It lies 3500 meters altitude (10500 feet) in the mountains arriving Wednesday 07.08.19. The town is somewhat bigger that I had expected with a vibrancy and vigour that was pleasantly surprising. Our host Gary at “Mia Casa” suggested we try a meal out at a friend and Spanish tutor of his, downtown. A Pedir de Boca turned out to be a delightful recommendation in surroundings that paid homage to the artist Goya. Pillipé Vintemilliar turned out to be an interesting Maitre De, as was his family history. Being brought up in the area, he provided us with much background and history of Cuenca. On Thursday 09.08.19 we had a good long mouch down the byways, churches, Cathedral and small artisanal shops that suffuse the city scape. The walk, deep in the valley, was particularly pleasant in the dewy light of the late afternoon setting sun. Saturday 10.09.19 Have now changed domicile further out in the suburbs to reside with Hervé & Carol. He is a lawyer & he and his wife are expecting their first child. Sunday we walked into town along the Tomebamba river bank. Left Cuenca 17.09.19 for Alaisi and stopped at Kilawasi with Beatrice in order that we were able to arrange a trip on “The Devil’s Nose” train ride. The train ascends a precipitous climb up the Devil’s Nose mountain.

Cuenca Cathedral begun 1885 completed 1975

Cuenca is surprisingy vibrant and urbane. The catedral dominates the local city scape and is hugely proportioned. It was opened in 1975 having been in the process of construction for 90 years!

The Devils Nose

Headed north through the mountains to Alausi, it is the “jump off” point for the precarious train ride up the side of a mountain which involves switchbacks, heart stopping views and mountain village life.

The time came to catch a bus up to Quito, so we hightailed it up the valley side and flagged down a bus on the interstate after grabbing our luggage back at the hostel.

Made it into Quito six hours later in time to go out for a pleasant meal before bedding down for the night. A busy couple of days followed heading out to the true line of the Equator then catching a flight up to Panama to take a look at the Canal followed by a three day junket out to the San Blas islands off the Caribbean coast.

An idyllic sunset on the San Blas islands.


Got back into Panama City, packed and headed out to the airport for a 04:30 am check in for a flight out to LAX and a 22:00 pm Virgin Australia flight out to Sydney.

Got into Guayaquil on the Ecuador mainland. Transferred to a 737 for an hour and a half flight.

Landed San Cristobal late afternoon, cleared customs and immigration and got to our Airbnb and flopped for an hour or so. Then headed out to orientate ourselves. The harbour area was around fifteen minutes walk away and is a delightfully arrange promenade passing restaurants, chandeliers and small shops along the way. Celebrated our 45 anniversary with a meal and drink at the Golden Bay Hotel.

Took a fast ferry over to Santa Cruz (Indefatigable) island, passing Santa Fé (Barrington) island for a weeks layover whilst arranging a 5night/6day cruise around the western lying Isabella & Fernandina ( Albemarle & Narborough) islands on Wednesday 03.07.19. Stunning how bird life is not shy at all coming so close and “cheeky” with it.

Millenium Cruising Motor Yacht

Wednesday 03.07.19 Later this afternoon we will borde the Millenium for a cruising junket around the islands alluded to in the above description. Weather is overcast but am hoping that it will improve.

02.07.19 Playa Mansa Santa Cruz,Galapagos Islands
14:22pm Tuesday
It drizzled here early afternoon. So after sheltering under some bushes until it cleared Lynn laid the beach sheet out and had a doze. Just sitting here musing and listening to the waves breaking on the sandy shore line. Tomorrow we leave our accommodation with David and his family in Bella Vista and at the 19:30 bord the cruiser Millennium in Puerto Ayora for a 5 night 6 day junket around the islands of Isabella, Fernandina, Pinzon & then back to Santa Cruz. When we get back we have accommodation and passage booked to Floreana.

03.07.19 Boarded the Millenium last night and weighed anchor for Isabella at around 22:00. Unfortunately within half an hour of boarding Lynn fell ill with sea sickness and stayed up most of the night, heaving. 05.07.19 This morning she was no better. She wanted to stay on the beach today at Villamill whilst I along with the rest of the passengers take a trip up the volcano. She will decide during the course of today if she will continue or meet me back in Santa Cruz when the boat berths in 5 days time. 18:45 Had a 10 mile trek up Volcano Sierra Negra. 06.07.19 Woke early to a beautiful morning. Lynn had a better night with only a couple noughts of sea sickness interludes. She’s feeling much more positive. This morning all guests ventured on to the lava field at Punta Moreno. 11.00am went snorkelling with turtles and a variety of fish. After lunch, weighed anchor and sailed north, between Fernandina and Isabela islands headed for Puerto Mangle. 17:00 Went snorkelling again. This time we were joined by a group of playful sea lions. Early evening weighed anchor and headed further up the coast to Punta Espinoza in Fernandina. Saturday 06.07.19 Lynn borrowed my gear and went practicing snorkelling. She did really well. Sailed back across the straight to Tagus cove where we stopped for lunch. 13:00 will be a “dry landing” ( whatever that means) and then snorkelling later in the afternoon. The dry landing involved a hike up to Darwin’s Lake, a short way up the hill where we saw initials from one of the crew from the Beagle. Later more snorkel practice for Lynn, but in deeper water this time, in Tagus cove. Whilst headed north a large pod of Dolphin passed us by headed south. We were also joined by male frigate bird taking a breather. 17:45 started to round the north cape. Decided to take a bath! Really bizarre feeling, lying in a warm bath looking out the window at a couple of frigate birds flying alongside keeping abreast of the boat and occasionally glancing over at me with idle interest. Sunday 07.07.19 Cruised overnight and got to Santiago island at 06:00am. Calm crossing the northern cape, much to Lynn’s relief, no doubt. This morning after breakfast we are out for a “wet landing” which means we doubtless have to wade ashore. Punta Baquerizo on Santiago (island San Salvador o’ James). 11:30 Got back to the boat after a nice interlude on shore walking the coast and later doing some snorkelling. It has been a beautifully sunny day with warm balmy temperatures. Motored to the south side of Santiago and weighed anchor offshore from “Chinese Hat “ island. Took the Zodiac to the beach and walked for 3/4 of a klmtre. Later went snorkelling. Saw Parrot Fish, and a White tip Reef Shark. 18:20 Now headed SE toward Baltra Island. A short stay back at San Cristobal ensues and then we depart these shores.

To this man goes the final accolade. He published his tome “Origin of Species” subsequent to his visit here in Sept & Oct 1835.

On Sunday 10.03.19, we were given a joint birthday present treat to a concert Matiné of Classical Opera Music Favourites at Sydney Opera House.

Happy Birthday!

It was absolutely delightful. Nessun Dorma from Turandot, Puccini La Bohème, Massenet & Strauss. The compère provided a beautiful foil with comedic lines delivered with drôle understatement.

Will be headed up to Coomera on Thursday 14.03.18 for a short interlude with Amelie, Hannah & Yuya before taking off back to Mexico.

Landed Cancun 21.03.19 grabbed the ADO airport bus out to Puerto Morelos and then a “Collectivo” to meet our host Omar on “Avenida Delfines.” Will stay, probably a month, then move on down the coast to Playa del Carmen for another month.

For the second time MP’s voted against May’s reprehensible withdrawal agreement. It appears that the government of the UK is dead set against complying with the vote to leave the EU and are employing artifice to rob us of our democratic decision to leave.

However, on the 13.03.19, parliament voted to take “No Deal” off the tabe, thereby leaving us with absolutely no leverage against the EU. This decision will live in infamy.

Thursday 03.05.19 Today, I paid my £25 and joined the “Brexit Party.” From a position of being absolutely sick of the way May & the Conservative Party have conducted themselves with respect to our supposed exit from the EU, I decided to act. For too long now Theresa May, Gavin Barwell, Whitehall & it’s mandarins Mark Sedwill, Ollie Robbins have worked assiduously to water down & nullify our mandated vote to leave the EU, ECJ, CAP, CFP, CDF taking back control of our laws, borders, & money.

22.04.19 Well, had a surprise birthday treat planned for today. A trip out into the bay on a leaping, diving submersible. However, when we got there, the staff said that it had gone unserviceable. Disappointed, however, spent the rest of the afternoon harbourside restaurant downing cocktails. Hey Ho..!

Costa Rica Tree Iguana

25.05.19 The PM Theresa May has handed her resignation in after much pressure from the 1922 committee. However, I do think it’s too little, too late. The Conservatives got wiped out in the European Elections. Elections, I hasten to add that we should not have taken a part in, but for the PM’s prevarications. Flew down to Costa Rica for a few weeks. The weather doesn’t bode well, as it is “Rainy Season” here. San Jose, the capital is a “hodge podge” of shops, small stores and feverish economic activity, as store holders, customers and suppliers all choke the streets & thoroughfares with their wares and blandishments for “bargains” galore. Decided to head down to the coast & ended up in Villareal, a town close to Tamarindo on the Pacific coast. 04.06.19. Have now moved further along the Pacific seaboard to a town called Samara just south of Nicoya. It has a very “laid back” ambiance with a not insignificant presence of American, Italian, European expatricianers in evidence. The hostel El Dorado (US$125 for 7 nights), is run by Stephan an ex pat Italian and his son Christopher. Both delightfully engaging individuals. 13.06.19, will be headed back to San Jose for a couple of days prior to flying down to Guayaquil in Ecuador.

Unfortunately, plans have changed in quite a dramatic way.

I received news that my mother had taken a turn for the worse and sadly she passed away on 15.12.18. Cancelled existing flights. Booked flights through JFK and then Icelandair on to Reykjavik . Arrived Keflavik Tuesday 18.12.18 06:10 am where Sosh & Johan Kristin picked us up. Profound sense of loss.

Left Iceland on the 24.12.18.

Got into Newark early and left at 12:17pm on the 24.12.18 for LAX. Left in the early evening on a Virgin Australia flight getting into Brisbane a little over 11 hours later, where Georgina picked us up. She, Dom & Thor had come up to visit Hannah, Yuya & Amalie for the weekend. Having lost a day, as we were effectively flying backwards in time, we were shattered. We lost Christmas day and arrived the morning of the 26.12.18.

16.01.19 May’s Withdrawal Bill was voted down by Parliament. However, she has survived a “No confidence” motion by the opposition. Down in Mascot, Sydney. Renting an apartment, which gives us the opportunity to spend some time with Thor (grandson) during the day.

16.02.19 Serendipity turned and smiled benignly on us. Having been offered the opportunity by Claire, a friend of my daughters, to be guests at a Sail GP event that was to take place around Shark Island in Sydney Harbour straights. The augers were set well for the weekend. The catamarans are 40′ long and weigh in and around two tons. At speed, they elevate onto foils that divest themselves of the drag of the hull. In this condition they reach speeds upwards of 45 knots. Thank you Claire.

There are days when a number of elements conspire to slot into position to provide an idyllic setting with great ambiance and a sense of occasion. It just so happened that it was Lynn’s birthday yesterday!…which surely was providential.

Sunday 17.02.19  Moved accommodation to Bexley, Arncliffe with hosts Renaldo & Henni. It is further away from Bondi, but only marginally so. Headed up to Coomera on the Gold Coast 27.02.19. For a short break to see Amelie, Hannah & Yuya. Back Monday 04.03.19 and will be stopping for 3 nights in Waterloo with Don. Then back to Renaldo & Henni’s before flying back up to Gold Coast prior to a flight out to Mexico on the 13.03.19.

Climbing out of the Atitlàn caldera

Started out from Lago Atitlàn catching the 08:00 am boat of over to Panajachel to pick up an overland bus. The transfer was to cover 190 klm. to Lanquin in ten hours. The bus climbed slowly out of the huge Atitlàn caldera and on to the agriculturally productive ravine riven foothills of Xeabej. The weather was overcast & C20.Got to Chichicastenango at around 09:35 after lots of hairpin bends got into heavily forested area of Beech and Fir trees. Got into Santa Cruz del Quish at 10:00am. About 2 miles out of town saw a guy pulling a two wheeled pallet truck transporting a fridge  accompanied by a pack of docks, as if it was the most normal thing in the world. The road began to degenerate markedly from here into little more than a pitted track, girded by huge palm fronds and forests. Passed through myriad small villages clinging to mountain sides as the vehicle negotiated and threaded its way along its tortuous track NW.

Now making fairly slow progress as the vehicle picks its way along the mountain tracks avoiding rock falls and washed out sections of the “road.”

One of those moments when one hopes that the driver’s wife hasn’t left him, taking the kids with her. Telling him that she hates him and never wants to see him again. Leaving him, feeling suicidal and wanting to end it all !!!

Perplexing,  how these hill communities survive. Were it not for the traffic picking its way along these ravines, ridges and rough tracks, supplies of basic commodities would be problematic. 

   Gradually the track started a tortuous descent down to the Lanquin river and a welcome forthcoming respite from the stomach churning track. The following morning, one woke to a fine day bathed in the soft morning glow of the rising sun. The river glistened and bubbled along and a group of ducks waddled up to investigate what was happening onshore.

Lanquin high street. Traffic calming measures tend towards being superfluous to requirements, at present.
Rio Lanquin
The jetty landing at The Sun Dog Cafe where one picks up a water taxi. 

There is something magical about a free flowing natural river environment. The air around vibrant, as it sizzles the accumulated night time dew in early morning sunshine. When one breathes it in, it’s like champagne corks going off in ones head. It is fresh and invigorating. Its microclimate is cool & refreshing. The trees provide nature’s perfume. Bird life is prolific and in abundance. At night the sounds are so haunting, disconcerting and just a little threatening, for some of those of an urban persuasion.

Sunday 30.09.18 Left Laquin at 08:30 for a five hour transfer on the “bum bouncer” to The Sun Dog Cafe at the eastern shoreline of Lago Izabal. Hopefully, to be picked up by water taxi for a short 15 minute transfer to Hotel Casa Perico is perched in a mangrove coppice. Our host Jonathan, greeted us and took us along fifty metres of duck boardwalk to show us the room. This was a good size with a large mosquito grilled window which gave out onto the forest beyond. Later I met Paul, a Swiss guy that had built the whole place from scratch, beginning when he had arrived in the area some seventeen years earlier. Having booked two nights, one contemplated perhaps staying longer. However, the arrival of a young family, who were domiciled in the adjacent room swiftly dissuaded us. Noise, travels really well through timber,…..and kids make a lot of noise. 

Hotel on the water

Duck board “highway” to the room
A Loo with a view

A Cruise up El Golfete to Livingston on the Caribbean coast

Monday 01.09.18. Taking advantage of the good weather, decided to take a cruise with the boat that shuttles along El Golfete, calling at various privately owned villas and small hotels along the way to Livingston, on the Caribbean coast. Life on the water is altogether much more languid and denuded of  shore based pressures. 

Tuesday 02.10.18  Lazy start today as the water taxi pick up wasn’t due until 14:00pm. Made it over the water and picked up the overland transport just before a huge deluge, which remained with us for a good portion of the three & a half hour trip north to Casa de Grethel, in Florez. On the outskirts of Florez, was unexpectedly met by a minivan that apparently was a transfer downtown. However, it quickly became evident that this was a choreographed opportunity for a “hard sell” for trips to the Mayan temple complex at Tikal & other “bargain basement priced trips.”!! Once it became clear to the enterprising opportunists that we were not interested. We were quickly marginalised, dismissed and even given a “bum steer” as to where the ferry over to our island accommodation in Lago Peten Itza lay. Self evidently we had returned to the world of, “Cynical Opportunism.” However, after having said all that, I am pleased to say that most Guatemalans are not hewn from the same medium as these chaps. They are by and large helpful, good humoured and a little shy.

Island life, Florez


Hopefully, the next three days will be spent in quiet enjoyment of the lake, its environs & pleasant meals with views from the neo colonial style balcony over the straits, whilst contemplating a trip east to Belize. Now, where did I put that Panama chapeau?

The sound of Bob Marley and “We’re Jammin’ ” came drifting through the open door along with the morning sun. The previous night had been punctuated by the bangs & whooshes of fire-crackers and rockets exploding into the late evening air, as the village prepared for Independence Day celebrations over the impending weekend. The rain clouds that seemed to have had a propensity to roll in as afternoon marched on, have thankfully, fallen away to leave the lake bathed in a balmy golden glow.

Lago Atitlán

Lake Atitlán is situated in southern Guatemala Central America with a maximum depth of about 340 metres (1,120 ft)[1] with an average depth of 220 metres (720 ft).[4] Its surface area is 130.1 km2 (50.2 sq mi).[1] It is approximately 18 by 8 km with around 20 km3 of water. Atitlán is technically an endorheic lake, feeding into two nearby rivers rather than draining into the ocean. It is shaped by deep surrounding escarpments and three volcanoes on its southern flank. The lake basin is volcanic in origin, filling an enormous caldera formed by an eruption 84,000 years ago. The culture of the towns and villages surrounding Lake Atitlán is influenced by the Maya people. The lake is about 50 kilometres (31 mi) west-northwest of Antigua.

Night Sky Phenomenon

Appeared from nowhere….and then, just disappeared!

Several nights ago, though still cloudy, the matt and star studded backcloth of the night sky, viewed in my indolent gaze, was interrupted by something, quite…well… astounding. I saw a UFO!…High in the night sky, it had suddenly appeared, and hovered. It was most definitely not a helicopter or a drone. Circular in shape and studded around its edge with orange lights. It remained for about ten minutes, and then, as suddenly as it appeared, it disappeared. It left me bewildered and somewhat stunned.

Passing Ships

Something that granted, I had not been unaware of in the past, but nevertheless has been very noticeable here at Casa Mdera Hostel is, the sheer number and diversity of people that pass through, pass by, and linger. It is perhaps, a function of the length of time one stays in a place that dulls that awareness. However, Canadians, Israelis, Americans, Mexicans, Spanish, Germans, English and of course Guatemalans, all alight here at some time. Here of course, and in this environment, it tends to be people of a more youthful vintage, availing themselves of the bohemian lifestyle, music, artisanat produce, therapeutic offerings and a meditative environment. The conversation inevitably revolves around where one has been, where one is going and recommendations for this hostel or that food etcetera. Not dissimilar to Ubud in Fiji in many ways. A recommendation to try a “Real Ale” bar in Panajachel (about 10klms along the lago/crater rim) brought me into conversation with a retired German surgeon who, after a divorce in his homeland, came out here seven years ago to start a new life. He acquired some land, a new partner, and built himself a property in Jaibalito (a small township along the coast from San Marcos. I spent a delightful couple of hours talking with him over a range of subjects, from life here in Atitlàn, to politics back in Germany and western europe.

Jaibalito, Lago Atitlan

Local Colour

Once joy at discovery of a small, beguiling local environment embeds itself into consciousness, it tends to leech its caché, pretty though it may be. I suppose it is a function of the heat, pace of life and finding interesting things to do, that are much closer at hand. One thinks of a hammock or a nice easy chair, where one can lie/sit back, and ease into a state of torpor and ultimately drift off to sleep. However, today (monday 17.09.18) will be different. Decided to take the ferry over to Panajachel to take a look round. The transfer took 40 minutes and cost 25 Qts (£2.50).

Around Lago Atitlàn perimeter

The volcano perches on the southern rim of the Atitlán caldera, which contains Lake Atitlán. Since the major caldera-forming eruption 85 thousand years ago (ka), three stratovolcanoes—San Pedro, Tolimán, and Atitlán—have formed in and around the caldera. Atitlán is the youngest and most active of the three volcanoes.

Tomorrow, Thursday (20.09.18) will be changing domicile from here at Casa Mdera, San Marcos over the water to Posada Man, San Juan La Laguna.

Dire Straits ’79


Saturday 25.08.18  

Left Cancun at 11:00 & got into Aurora airport Guatemala at 11:52 local time, (there’s an hour time disparity twixt Cancun & Guatemala city). Lynn left from Cancun in the afternoon back to the UK to support a friend who is quite ill at the moment. After clearing immigration, Customs & getting some cash (Quetzal,£1=10qtzl) grabbed a “Collectivo” for the 1 hours transfer to Antigua (80qtzl). Got to Colonia el Manchen locality of Antigua and was met by my host Adam at El Mirador Apartment. Adam is Polish and he came over from Cambodia about 7 months previously following his girlfriend Anna, to start life here in Guatemala.

Fuego killed 62 people on June 5th 2018. Pyroclastic flows travelling down the slopes and into the town completely outran them.

Antigua, is a small town, lies in the shadow of three huge volcanoes.  Volcan d’Agua, Fuego & Acatenango are all around the 2550m (8300ft) in height. Two of them are considered active whilst Volcan d’Agua has been dormant for some time.

Santa Catalina Arch in Antigua, Guatemala, sits in the shadow of Volcan de Agua.

The town of Antigua is delightful. A tad ramshackled with numerous shops, artisanat establishments and lots of restaurants ranging from local cuisines to Japanese & Lebanese establishments. The streets are for the most part cobbled which actually does a fine job in holding down the speed of vehicles that traverse the town. However, the longevity of vehicles is somewhat circumscribed by the pounding they take over the time of their utility. The market is a thriving “hotch potch” of clothing stalls, food stalls, vegetable, meat & fish stalls all cheek by jowel in a seemingly chaotic cacophony of confusion. However, it functions as the heartbeat of the town.

6.09.18 Sunday: Just sneezed, and a crown has popped out. Guess that I’m going in search of a dentist tomorrow. Earlier went down town and watched a bit of the sunday service and then spent the rest of the afternoon just mooching around in the balmy afternoon heat. Showers rolled in later though.

On Monday 10.09.18, will be headed out to the Lake Atitlan area. The first accommodation will be at San Juan Laguna for three days. Followed by a two day stay at Casa Madera Atitlan by the lake.



Travelling by “Collectivo” (basically a van with bench seating),  north for an hour, for a  9 day stay in Puerto Morelos. I know very little about the place, other than the beaches are supposedly, nice. Our hostesses, Isabelle & Kelly are delightful, charming and very welcoming. One is a Phd student and the other a Marine Biologist with particular focus on Coral Reef atrophy.

18.08.18 Went down to the beach and was surprised and a little disappointed to see that though, the beach was pristine, huge quantities of seaweed are piled all along the beachfront. This phenomenon has been apparent for a year or two now and has impacted tourist numbers. The incidence of “sargasso” is also exacerbated by large quantities being pushed further north by outflow from the Amazon river further south.

The Collectivo back from town today had to be the worst ride yet. I counted 22 people squeezed into a vehicle akin to a Toyota Commuter with bench seats. “Up close & personal,” outside ambient temperature was in the C30’s, however inside had to be closer to C40. Faces, misshaped, distorted, were driven up against bulkheads, arms and legs squeezed into all kinds of weird shapes and perspiration dripped from everywhere. However, everyone, good natured & polite, with “long suffering” smiles.

Sad news from the UK. A friend is quite ill. Shocked and disconcerted. Lynn has altered her existing flight back to Blighty on the 20.11.18 to 23.08.18 in order to be close to Do at her challenging time. I’ll carry on to Guatemala and wait for her there in Antigua, a suburb in Guatemala city.

23.08.18 01:30 am Mexican time (10.30 22.08.18 UK time) sad news. Our friend Do has died.

Arrived Antigua (suburb of Guatemala City) after an hour & ten minute flight down from Cancun & an hour transfer from the airport. First impression are very positive. The highways are well maintained. The topography is amazing and bowling up at El Mirador accommodation with vues out on a volcanic landscape with El Fuego and Volcàn de Agua in the distance is, nothing short of sensational! My AirBnB host is called Adam. He’s a Polish guy that came over from a stint in Cambodia following his girlfriend Anna, and is now managing this business with her, for a period of seven months.

Fuego killed 62 people on June 5th 2018. Pyroclastic flows travelling down the slopes and into the town completely outran them.

Today (Friday) I have been catching up on emails & sorting out paperwork. It has been cloudy most of the morning but warm, with the sun making an appearance late in the day. The volcanoes are swathed in cloud. There is noise of festivities filtering out from the San Jose Cathedral,so I’m guessing it’s some Saint’s day celebration or other.Went down to town late afternoon to orientate myself a little more. Saw a couple of churches devastated by either earthquake or volcanic activity. The central square (Plaça Mayor) is delightful, full of tree giving shade, the Mayors offices and administration buildings, a church, and artisan shops and cafés surrounding the gardens under a wooden canopied promenade giving shade to pedestrians.


Friday the 13th has, up to now, conspired to validate its malevolent auguries . Water has ceased to flow to the toilet, sink & shower. Dogs howling at night & our host (Roberto) unable to attend to the problems until later in the day! So your ablution deficient host will attempt some descriptive prose in spite of these handicaps.

Finally, good news. The water is back on. It appears that the gardener had inadvertently switched off the supply, and subsequently the pump tripped out on the resurgent current. Ah well, it’s resolved.

At least one can rest easy.

Monday 16.07.18 will be headed east over the Yucatan Peninsula to Playa del Carmen. It’s a four and a half hour road trip, so not so bad.

16:40 Arrived after a fairly boring, though comfortable trip. The bus was a relatively new Swedish Scania, so all “Ship shape & Bristol Fashion.” Checked in with host Julio & wife. Although, she wasn’t there, having left for Europe on a research sabbatical.

30.07.18 Monday  Visit to the local Doctors surgery today. My GP back in the UK is restricting my prescription tablets as a precursor to an examination ( which I am of course unable to attend due to travelling.) However, if I can provide satisfactory blood tests, liver & kidney function test results locally, he will enable the proscription. So now engaged in a search for a local clinic and blood test facilities in order to provide the necessary information. Tedious, but thankfully do-able, which would obviate an early return back to the UK.

The weather here has turned a tad changeable this past couple of days with cloudy skies and occasional rain. It has a propensity to flatten ones mood and put a less than rosey veil of grey over the environment. The political diaspora back in Blighty is no less grey and foreboding as May & Parliament break for Recess. Why on earth they would take a holiday during the course of crucial Brexit negotiations and the still ill defined British position is astounding.

Notional route around the Yucatan.

A couple of other things, in the form of random observations about day to day life in Mexico follows a slightly more critical path. For instance, the plumbing. The flushing process in Mexican toilet bowls are by and large abysmal, even in newer properties. It is a completely hit and miss, a “cliff hanger” as to whether everything is discharged from the bowl, leading to embarrassing extra time hanging around waiting for the cistern to refill at an extraordinary slow rate as the pressure is so low. The second imponderable, are addresses. I mean proper meaningfully exact addresses. The existence of road names, house numbers appear to be a complete mystery wrapped in an enigma . Sometimes they are apparent, and often times not. When one is completely bereft of hope, along totters someone with local knowledge to “snatch victory from the jaws of defeat,” by saying “Oh, it’s over there.” The third thing is “sleeping policeman.” It’s like a politician had gone on holiday somewhere, saw some examples of the said “sleeping policemen,” returned home and stuck them,….. everywhere. They are, for all practical purposes, everywhere; Motorways, A roads, B roads….you name it..and there’s an infernal “sleeping policeman.”  Finally, pavements…….there is absolutely no conformity or consistency. One definitely needs to keep one’s eyes on where one is stepping or suffer a broken ankle.

Tomorrow (Thursday 09.08.18) headed north for a weeklong stay in Puerto Morelos.

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